- BRIAN BEERS
- Feb 16
- 11 min read
This story is about a bonding journey that my son Arlo and I made to India. But it begins with my earlier interest in India before he was born
When I was quite young, I had a near death experience as a result of eating too many walnuts at Christmas time. I got a severe case of hives and couldn’t breathe. Fortunately, the doctor got to me in time and saved me with a shot of adrenaline (Epinephrine). Still young, I became very afraid of dying. Further circumstances led me to question my Christian upbringing, which made my fear even worse. After that I carried the then equivalent of an EpiPen (and still do).

Figure 1: The Anaphylaxis of My Youth
Then other events transpired. In my Junior year in high school, we had an exchange student from India. His last name was Jain, so I assume today that he was part of the Jain religion, but he spoke with me as if it were about Hinduism. We got on very well and I was intrigued with what sounded to me like a completely different take on life. I asked him to help me learn more.
The following summer while I was living and working as a dishwasher at a resort, he sent me some books written in English. The first was the Bhagavad Gita and the second was the Upanishads. Because I had indicated an interest in traveling to India, he also sent me a text on the Hindi language written in English. When I wasn’t washing dishes, I spent my summer poring over these texts and trying to learn Hindi in my very small room

Figure 2: The Bhagavad Gita
I was a very confused and anxious kid after that as I entered my first year of college. Though performance anxiety allowed me to do OK for a while, my confusion took over and I was asked to take a year off to reconsider what I wanted. At that juncture, I decided that I really wanted to go to India and live in an Ashram for a while to get my head straight. Unfortunately, I had no money to do that.
So, two of my college buddies and I bought a car and set off to find work on the missile silos that were being built at that time at many locations in the West.

Figure 3: Missile Silo Construction in the 60s
These plans were completely thwarted when we had a bad car accident outside of San Antonio Texas. The car was totaled and my two buddies decided to go back home. I wanted to continue my quest for money to go to India, so I began hitch hiking around the country looking for work. I finally found work in central Kansas on July 4-not on a missile silo, but on a regular construction project as a day laborer.
After spending that summer doing that type of work, I headed to my brother’s home in Rockford, Illinois. I stayed with him for 6 months, working in a local hardware store. During that time, I had a change of heart and decided that going to India was really dumb. Instead, I should live life like my hero brother. Have a nice family and work hard. The rest would take care of itself.
That is how I spent the next 42 years until I decided to arrange a trip to India to do some birding. My son Arlo joined me and the real part of the trip had nothing to do with birding.
Arlo and I had had frequent discussions about the religions of the middle East and had had a hard time adopting them as our own. We were both intrigued more by what little we knew about the religions of the far East.
So in 2004 when I had planned that birding trip to India, Arlo came to me and asked, “ Any chance you can extend your trip, so that we can find some time together in India to visit some of the spiritual hotspots?”
I was thrilled by the prospects. “Absolutely. What a wonderful thought. Let’s make it happen.”
Of course we talked it over and he wanted to do more than just hit a few spiritual hotspots. Arlo made all the decisions. The thought of being with him was wonderful. Even though he was nearly 40 years old, it was the first time that just he and I traveled together, just the two of us. The following is a synopsis of our adventure in India.
Arlo arrived at the Indira Ghandi International Airport in New Delhi on February 14 (yes Valentines day, but we didn’t exchange cards) at like 3:00 AM.

Figure 4: Indira Ghandi Airport-New Delhi
On arrival, Arlo said, “Great to see you dad. The trip was OK, but very tiring. It was more than 16 hours. It is first thing in the morning here but there is a 10.5 hours’ time difference. Ouch. I have no idea what time it is. But let’s go.”
“Great that you are here. I love that you suggested this.”
After grabbing the cab hire that I had pre-arranged, we headed to Agra. It was a drive of about 3 and a half hours.
Arlo said, “I’m glad we are in a car and not in that type of passenger transportation.”

Figure 5; Typical New Delhi Passenger Transport
Agra was founded in 1504 at the height of the Muslim incursion into Hindu India. The city has many Muslim monuments, but the most famous is the Taj Mahal. The fabulous structure was built as the final resting place of the favorite wife of the emperor of the Mughal empire at the time.
Arlo and I were able to marvel at the magnificence of the structure.
Ever the sceptic, Arlo said, “Just imagine the enormous number of lives that had to be lost so that the edifice could be built.”
“Yes.”, I said. “So much for empires.”

Figure 6: The Magnificent Taj Mahal
The city itself was anything but magnificent. The street chaos was overwhelming.
Arlo said as he looked out the car window, “Wow. Now I feel like I am really in India.”
I concurred, “Yes, and I think we will see a lot more of this. You wouldn’t believe the overnight train I took to get from New Delhi to Corbett National Park in the lower Himalayas.”

Figure 7:Typical Street Scene in Agra
We stayed for the afternoon of that day, and the morning of the next. Our lodgings were modest, as we had requested

Figure 8: Our Modest Accommodations in Agra
From Agra, we headed back to New Delhi. The next morning we took a hire cab for the drive to Varanasi. Varanasi (or Benares) is considered the most sacred city in India in the Hindu religion. We headed there to experience its sacred character.
Arlo looked out the window again and said, “I thought this was supposed to be the main highway to Varanasi.”
“Yes, people back home think they have heavy traffic.”, I concurred.

Figure 9:Typical Traffic on the Road to Varanasi
The next morning we went down to the Ganges river and hired a boat .

Figure 10:Boatman for Hire on the Ganges
Arlo said, “I want to see the people who come to the Ganges at Varanasi to bathe in the Ganges to get rid of their sins.”
Soon enough we were there. It was an amazing sight to behold.

Figure 11:Batheing in the Ganges for Redemption
This picture shows only a very small fraction of all the people we saw washing away their sins.
Arlo said, “It is easy to think of our mind or soul to be completely detached from the body, but this is proof that the two are one.”
“I couldn’t agree more. But look what is next.”
With that the boatman took us to the Manikarnika Ghat. A Ghat is a flight of steps leading down to the river. We already knew that Hindus traditionally cremate their dead. But apparently, if your ashes are scattered into the Ganges, that is most auspicious. This Ghat is one of 4 Ghats in Varanasi dedicated to cremation.

Figure 12:Manikarnika Cremation Ghat
Arlo said, “I don’t know about this reincarnation business, but I am all in on Karma. What I do today influences everyone I interact with, and they in turn to everyone they interact with, ad infinitum.”
“As with so many things, I have similar feelings. Another fact connecting body and soul.”, I said.
Arlo responded, “Yes, just like the other religions do. Like you and mom experienced at Fatima, Portugal, or the Muslims going to Mecca, or the Jews to the Wailing Wall.”
“Yes, but we are not done.”
With that we headed to Sarnath (also known as Deer Park). This is the location just 5 miles from Varanasi where the Buddha taught his path to enlightenment and established the Buddhist religion.
When we got there, we were amazed. It basically was an archaeological site.

Figure 13: Buddhist Remains at Sarnath
Arlo said, “Dad, I did some research about this site before we came. The Buddha started here about 500 BC. From here his disciples (called Bodhisattvas) carried the message far and wide. A whole empire arose and flourished.”
“Yes, but what happened?”
“Beginning in about the 4th century AD, the Hindu religion began to appeal to many of the locals. And by the 12th century AD, there was an incursion of Muslims that basically drove the last of the Buddhists out.”
“Wow. Amazing how the fate of religions is tied to war and empires.”
“Yes, only a very few people in this part of India are Buddhists. The religion spread all over other parts of Asia, but it is no longer here.”
We then went over to what appeared to be a relatively new temple on the site.

Figure 14; Buddhist/Jain Temple at Sarnath
After asking around, we found that it was built in the 1850s, funded by Buddhists from other countries, as well as Jains. Apparently some aspects of the Buddhist history are important for the Jains as well. We didn’t really go into the temple or the nearby museum as daylight was fading. We headed back to Varanasi to our relatively fancy hotel with a room on one of the upper floors.
We went to bed early. Sometime not much later I awoke and looked out of our window. I saw all kinds of lightings and possible explosions going on.
“What the heck is going on?”, the pessimist in me thought. “Is this the beginning of an insurrection?’
I immediately went downstairs to the front desk and asked for an explanation.
“It is just a wedding celebration for one of the rich families.”

Figure 15: Wedding Fireworks From a Distance
I sheepishly returned to our room and slept well after that.
The next morning, we got in our hire car and headed for our next destination. It was to be another full day on the road, a distance of almost 200 miles. We were headed to Bodh Gaya, a religious site and village in the state of Bihar. It is Buddhist iconic location where the Buddha was said to have been enlightened.
The journey was even more taxing than the one from New Delhi. There was some construction in places that forced the traffic off the road.

Figure 16: Road Conditions Traveling to Bodh Gaya
Of course these kinds of road conditions can lead to flat tires.

Figure 17:Flat Tire on Road to Bodh Gaya
We did make it to our destination by dusk and settled into our modest accommodations.

Figure 18:Fancy Digs in Bodh Gaya
The next morning we were able to get to the major site. The Buddha is said to have become enlightened after sitting under the Bodhi Tree meditating for a long period of time. When the Buddhists left Northern India, the branch of the religion that ended up in Sri Lanka was able to take along seeds from the original tree and grow ancestors in Sri Lanka.
The international Buddhist community has provided funds to keep this location viable and an ancestor of the original tree is now growing there.

Figure 19:Bodhi Tree at Bodh Gaya
Of course, there is an associated temple.

Figure 20:Mahabodhi Temple at Bodh Gaya
And, of course, a massive Buddha figure.

Figure 21: Buddha Figure at Bodh Gaya
To get to these sacred places, we had to navigate through congested streets with vendors and crowds, but also with a contingent of hawkers aggressively trying to sell supposed sacred artifacts.

Figure 22: Street Scene in Bodh Gaya
But finally, we saw the real reason for coming to Bodh Gaya. Under the Bodhi Tree were pilgrims from around the world practicing their path to spiritual enlightenment. Many sat in wordless meditations, while others offered up 10 thousand prostrations under the Bodhi Tree.

Figure 23: Ten Thousand Prostrations under the Bodhi Tree
Arlo said to me, “Now that’s what I call active meditation. When the body is active the mind tends to be quiet.”
“Yes. I like the meditation aspects of Buddhism, and the original simple world view.”
“We are on the same page dad.”
We loved our time in Bodh Gaya despite the street hawkers, but it was now time to move on. After most of the next day in Bodh Gaya, we caught a flight back to New Delhi. We spent the next 2 nights in some accommodations in the private home of our retired Indian general trip organizer. What a treat.

Figure 24: Accommodations in Private Delhi Home
We spent a full day in Delhi visiting various sights in the city, including several Muslim tombs and former Madrassas. Interestingly, we did not find any Hindu sights to visit.

Figure 25:The Muslim Humayans Tomb
And the nearby minaret calling the followers to prayer.

Figure 26: Qtrib Minaret in Delhi
What impressed us both was the Bahai temple, fashioned as a lotus flower.

Figure 27:Bahai Temple in Delhi
Arlo said, “I don’t know much about this faith, but I know they claim the essential unity of all people.”
“Yes, I think that all religions are worthy and just need to agree on one god.”
Arlo, “I think it started in Iran in the 19th century. I think they have seen a lot of persecution.”
Me, “ I know almost nothing, but certainly seems like worthy goals. I know there is a temple near me in Sterling, Virginia.”
Arlo, “Peace not war sounds good.”
The inside was equally impressive.

Figure 28:Bahai Temple Interior
The next day, we were off to our final destination, Shimla in the foothills of the Himalayas. It is about 250 miles from Delhi, so it took us most of the day. It has no spiritual significance that we knew off, but Arlo has a love of mountains, having spent many of his developmental years doing excursions into various mountain ranges. When the British were running India in the 19th century, they took the seat of government to Shimla for the summer. The Brits did not like the summer heat in Delhi.

Figure 29: Shimla Lodging
The above picture shows our Shimla lodging that we headed to immediately after arriving. We then headed to a vantage point where we could get a view of the city.

Figure 30:Shimla -Former Summer Capital of British India
Arlo said, “First thing in the morning let’s find a spot where we can see the Himalayas”
For some practical reasons, we modified our plan and walked around town in the morning.

Figure 31:Shimla Street Scene
Later that day our host showed us how to get to the viewpoint.
Arlo said,” Wow. That makes the Rockies look like bush league.”

Figure 32: The Himalaya View from Shimla
From there we headed back to town to take a look at the building in which the British civil servants lived and worked. It is pretty clear from the structure that they lived in relative luxury.

Figure 33:Viceregal Lodge in Shimla
From here we headed back to New Delhi and the airport. It was uneventful and sort of a downer because we were about to part ways again.
At the airport, Arlo hugged me and said, “Thank you for arranging for me to do this marvelous excursion with you. It has been wonderful. I feel a deeper connection to the worshippers of the world.”
I said, “I love you Arlo. This has been one of the best weeks of my life. I am so happy that you suggested this and had all these wonderful destinations in mind.”
“I love you too, dad. What a treat to travel with you.”
And with that, he was off to his plane for the arduous trip home.
I stayed on for another week of birding, but my heart was not really with it. I missed Arlo.
I am a lucky man. Few people get to experience togetherness like this.